Omaha Drain Mega FAQ

Repeated clogs usually mean one of three things: too much buildup on the pipe walls, a partial blockage (like roots or scale) that never fully cleared, or a problem further down the main line. Our TruTech technicians run the right size cable and can camera the line to find the root cause so you’re not calling us every few months.

For most home clogs, the best method is professional mechanical cleaning with a drain cable (also called snaking). This physically cuts through the blockage instead of just poking a small hole. For heavy grease or scale, we may recommend hydro jetting or descaling for a longer-term fix.

Yes, many store-bought chemical cleaners are harsh on older metal pipes and can damage finishes, rubber seals, and even septic systems. They also rarely solve the underlying problem. We recommend avoiding them and calling for a professional cleaning so your pipes aren’t slowly being eaten from the inside out.

Sewer smells can come from a dried-out trap, buildup of organic gunk inside the drain, or a bigger issue like a broken vent or sewer line. We’ll check the trap, clean the line, and, if needed, run a camera to make sure you don’t have a hidden break letting sewer gas escape.

Use drain strainers, avoid pouring grease or wipes down drains, and schedule maintenance cleaning on problem lines before they back up. Our VIP maintenance members get discounted cleanings and priority scheduling so clogs are less likely to become emergencies.

Snaking uses a steel cable with a cutting head to punch through specific clogs. Hydro jetting uses high-pressure water to scour the entire inside of the pipe, removing grease, sludge, and soft roots along the walls. Snaking is great for most single clogs; jetting is best when the line is coated or has recurring issues.

Most standard residential drains take 45–90 minutes to diagnose, set up, and clear. Tough main lines, roots, or heavy scale can take longer, especially if we add camera inspection or jetting to make sure the line is fully open.

Yes. Roots grow into small cracks in clay or old sewer pipes and act like a net that catches everything. We can cut the roots out of the line, camera the pipe to see how bad the damage is, and recommend repair or replacement options if the roots keep returning.

That usually means the main sewer line is restricted or blocked. When you run water upstairs, it can’t get out to the city main fast enough and finds the lowest opening in the system—often a basement floor drain or shower. A mainline cleaning and camera inspection can pinpoint the issue.

Our $93 Drain Opening Special includes a professional drain technician, a thorough evaluation of the problem drain, and a standard cable cleaning from an accessible cleanout or fixture. If we find bigger issues (like broken pipe, roots, or heavy scale), we’ll show you options and pricing before doing any additional work.

If a line cannot be cleared with standard methods, we’ll run a camera to see exactly what’s going on—collapsed pipe, heavy roots, a foreign object, or a belly (low spot). Then we’ll give you clear repair or replacement options so you know the next step before spending more money.

Yes. We can camera the line after cleaning to confirm the pipe condition, check for cracks or roots, and show you a real-time video of your sewer. This is especially helpful before buying a home or investing in major repairs.

Yes. Omaha has a lot of older homes with cast iron pipes. We use the right heads and equipment to safely clear cast iron and, when needed, perform descaling to remove heavy rust and hard buildup from the inside of the pipe.

Gurgling usually means the sewer or vent system is struggling to get enough air or is partially blocked. As water moves through a restricted pipe, it pulls air through the toilet, causing bubbles and noise. A mainline cleaning and vent check can resolve the issue.

Kitchen drains collect grease, food particles, and soap scum over time. This buildup coats the inside of the pipe and slowly narrows the opening. A professional cleaning will remove the buildup, and we’ll show you simple habits to keep it flowing longer.

Yes, grease and cooking oils are the #1 cause of kitchen clogs. Even if you rinse with hot water, grease cools down and hardens further down the line. Wipe pans with a paper towel and toss fat into the trash instead of the sink.

If the disposal runs but the sink backs up, the clog is usually in the drain line, not the disposal itself. Overloaded food, grease, or a sagging section of pipe can cause backups. We’ll clear the line, check the trap and piping, and verify the disposal is working correctly.

Often yes. Many disposals are jammed by a small object or have a reset or hex key slot that can free the blades. If the motor is burned out, leaking, or badly rusted, we’ll show you repair vs replacement options and pricing before you decide.

Use a sink strainer, scrape plates into the trash, avoid putting grease, coffee grounds, rice, and pasta down the drain, and run cold water when using the disposal. Regular maintenance cleanings on busy kitchens can also prevent surprise backups.

Shower drains usually slow down from a mix of hair, soap scum, and body oils. In some homes, the main sewer line is also partially blocked. Our techs will clear the trap and line, then check to be sure the main isn’t backing up too.

Hair easily wraps around screws and crossbars inside the drain. Over time it builds a “birds nest” that catches soap and debris. We can remove the built-up hair and recommend strainers or covers to trap hair before it gets into the drain.

A sour or sewer smell from the sink is usually bacteria growing in the drain, a partial clog in the trap, or a vent issue. We clean the drain, check the trap and overflow, and make sure your venting and trap seals are working correctly.

Toilets clog easily when there’s a partial blockage in the trap, something stuck further down the line, low-flow flushing issues, or too much paper and wipes. We can auger the toilet, check the main line, and help you decide if the toilet itself should be upgraded.

Only human waste and toilet paper. “Flushable” wipes, feminine products, cotton balls, paper towels, and dental floss all belong in the trash. Even wipes labeled “septic safe” can build up over time and cause major backups.

Warning signs include multiple drains backing up at once, gurgling toilets, sewer smells, or water coming up from floor drains. A TruTech sewer inspection with a camera is the fastest way to see if you’re dealing with a simple clog or a broken line.

Common causes are tree roots, collapsed or offset pipes, heavy grease buildup, foreign objects, and low spots (bellies) in the line. In some storms, city mains can also surcharge and push water back into private lines. We’ll identify the exact cause before recommending repairs.

Frequent backups, foul odors, patches of extra-green grass, sinkholes, or visible roots and offsets on a camera inspection all point to a broken or failing sewer. We document what we find and walk you through repair vs replacement options so you can make an informed decision.

Yes. We perform stand-alone camera inspections and camera-after-cleaning so you can see the condition of your sewer from the inside. It’s especially smart before buying a home or making a major sewer investment.

Descaling is a process that uses specialized equipment to grind and polish thick rust and mineral buildup out of old cast iron pipes. It restores the inside diameter of the pipe and helps prevent waste and paper from snagging on rough surfaces.

Hydro jetting uses high-pressure water to clean the entire inside of the pipe. We recommend jetting for heavy grease, sludge, and commercial lines or when standard snaking isn’t enough to keep the line open. It’s like power-washing your sewer instead of just punching a small hole.

In many cases, yes. Trenchless methods like pipe bursting or lining can replace or rehabilitate sections of sewer with minimal digging. After a camera inspection, we’ll let you know if trenchless is an option for your specific situation.

A spot repair fixes a specific bad section of pipe, usually where we see a crack, offset, or root ball. A full replacement installs new pipe from the house to the city connection. Spot repairs cost less up front but may leave other weak spots if the rest of the line is very old.

Most residential sewer replacements take 1–3 days depending on length, depth, and how much concrete or landscaping is involved. We’ll give you a project timeline before we start and keep you updated each day of the job.

Costs vary widely based on depth, length, and method (traditional vs trenchless), but many Omaha sewer replacements fall into a multi-thousand-dollar range. We provide a detailed written estimate, financing options, and multiple repair/replace choices whenever possible.

Trenchless replacement lets us replace or reline your sewer without digging up the entire yard. We use small access points to pull in new pipe or install a liner, saving your driveway, landscaping, and sidewalks from major disruption.

“Better” depends on your property and pipe condition. Trenchless is usually less invasive and faster, and can be cost-competitive when you factor in concrete and landscaping. Traditional trenching may be required if the line has severe bellies or configuration issues a liner can’t fix.

Yes. Many trenchless systems are designed to replace or reline older cast iron, clay, or Orangeburg pipe. We’ll inspect your line and confirm compatibility before recommending any trenchless solution.

Quality trenchless installations are designed to last decades, similar to new PVC pipe when installed correctly. We’ll review the product specs and warranty with you so you know exactly what to expect.

That depends on how many problem spots we find. If damage is limited to one area, a spot repair may make sense. If the line is failing in multiple locations or is made of very outdated material, a full replacement is usually the smarter long-term investment.

When the main sewer line is blocked or restricted, wastewater can’t flow out to the city main and will come up at the lowest fixture in the home—often a basement toilet, tub, or floor drain. We respond quickly, clear the line, and take steps to protect the area from further damage.

Sewer odors can come from dried-out traps, damaged vents, cracked pipes, or backups in the sewer line. We check traps and vents first, then use smoke or camera tests if needed to locate hidden leaks in the system.

A sewer cleanout is a capped access point to your main line, usually in the yard or basement. It gives us a safe, direct way to cable, jet, and camera the sewer without pulling toilets or cutting pipes every time there’s a backup.

Yes. Installing a cleanout makes future maintenance faster, cleaner, and often less expensive. We can add one during a repair or as a stand-alone upgrade to an older sewer system.

Descaling uses specialized tools to remove thick rust, hard water scale, and buildup from the inside of cast iron pipes. The goal is to restore as much original diameter as possible and smooth out rough surfaces that cause clogs.

We inspect your sewer with a camera. If we see heavy flakes of rust, jagged edges, or a pipe that has significantly narrowed from buildup (instead of a single break), descaling is often recommended before considering replacement or coating.

When done correctly with the right equipment, descaling is safe for cast iron. In fact, it can reveal weak sections that were already failing so we can address them before they collapse. Our techs adjust the process based on the age and condition of your pipe.

Jetting uses high-pressure water to remove soft buildup and grease. Descaling uses mechanical tools designed specifically to grind away hard rust and scale in cast iron. On some projects, we use both methods to get the cleanest possible pipe.

Descaling can significantly extend the usable life of a cast iron pipe, but it doesn’t turn old iron into brand-new PVC. Longevity depends on age, soil conditions, and how much original pipe is left after cleaning. We’ll show you camera footage so you can see the before and after results yourself.

Epoxy coating is a premium process where we apply a specialized resin inside the cleaned pipe to create a smooth, protective barrier. It can help seal small defects and protect the remaining cast iron from further corrosion.

Epoxy is best for homeowners who want to protect descaled cast iron without fully replacing it, especially under slabs or finished spaces. It’s an investment, so we’ll compare the cost and benefits against other options like spot repair or full replacement for your specific home.

Properly installed epoxy coatings are designed for long-term performance, often decades, when the pipe has been thoroughly cleaned and prepped. We’ll review the product warranty and what to expect for your home’s specific conditions.

Yes. We camera the line before, during, and after descaling and coating so you can see the improvement and we can confirm full coverage. This video also becomes part of the documentation you keep for future reference or home sales.

No. Descaling can’t move or lift a pipe that has sunk. Bellies and low spots are structural issues and often require repair or replacement. We’ll show you on camera where the belly is and discuss options to correct it.

A constantly running pump could mean high groundwater, a stuck float, improper pump size, or a discharge line that’s freezing or clogged. We’ll inspect the pit, discharge, and pump sizing to make sure it’s not being overworked or about to fail.

Basements flood when water around your foundation has nowhere to go. Common causes include failed sump pumps, lack of a pump, clogged drains, poor grading, or cracked walls. We’ll diagnose the source and design a solution to move water away from your home.

Most sump pumps last 7–10 years, but high-use pumps can wear out sooner. If your pump is older, noisy, or has visible rust, it’s smart to test and possibly replace it before the next big storm instead of after a flood.

The right pump size depends on how much water your pit receives, how high and far it has to pump, and your discharge pipe size. Our techs will evaluate your home and recommend a properly sized primary and, if needed, backup pump system.

A battery backup pump is a second pump powered by a battery that kicks on when the main pump fails or the power goes out. It’s extra insurance during storms when you need your sump system the most.

If your basement contains finished living space, a furnace, or anything you can’t afford to lose, we strongly recommend a backup system. It’s a fraction of the cost of cleaning up a flooded basement.

Odors can come from stagnant water, bacteria, or a connection to a sewer or drain line. We’ll inspect the pit, clean components as needed, and make sure your sump system is properly separated from the sewer system.

Yes, we reserve same-day and emergency slots for critical issues like failed sump pumps and active basement water. Call us, and we’ll let you know our first available arrival window.

Water through the floor drain usually indicates a mainline backup or a floor drain tied into an overloaded system. We’ll check your sewer and storm connections to identify whether the issue is sewer-related, groundwater-related, or both.

Hydrostatic pressure from saturated soil can push water through cracks, tie-holes, and porous concrete. While some solutions involve foundation work, proper drainage, sump pumps, and discharge routing can dramatically reduce wall leaks.

Yes. A clogged floor drain or main sewer can cause water from normal household use—or even city backups—to spill into the basement. Keeping drains clear and installing backwater valves in certain situations can help prevent flooding.

We recommend having your sump system checked at least once a year, and more often if your pump runs heavily during storms. Our VIP members can bundle sump inspections with other plumbing and drain maintenance for extra peace of mind.